My first visit to Provincetown was coming to an end. It was our last night in town and Scott and I wanted to have one last fabulous dinner. Our choice could not have been more perfect. We chose another Provincetown institution. We chose Pilgrim House!
Located on Commercial Street in the heart of P-town, yet set comfortably back from the hustle and bustle of the main thoroughfare, Pilgrim House opened for business in 1810, originally. This quaint complex consists of a boutique hotel, 4 event spaces for weddings and other functions, a showroom that has welcomed everyone from Lily Tomlin, back in 1967, to hilarious drag acts like Miss Richfield 1981 and The Landing Bistro & Bar, a warm and welcoming dining destination.
It was a chilly Sunday night and most of the weekenders had departed, so the crowd at the restaurant was light – a few tables were taken by friendly diners and there was a fun, boisterous group at the bar; probably guests of the hotel. We were met at the door by Mackenzie, a cute, outgoing young man who was doing double duty as host and server. He recommended we start with a signature cocktail and told
us that Ryan, the bartender, was a genius and could whip up just about anything we could desire! I ordered their Pimm’s Lemonade, a tasty concoction made with real lemonade, muddled mint, cucumber, orange and Pimm’s – a British gin-based liqueur infused with bitter herbs and citrus. I’m not normally a gin drinker, but this cocktail was absolutely delicious! Refreshing and lightly fruity, with a pleasant undertone from the fresh mint, it was so tasty it was almost like drinking soda…Almost! Scott had the Ginger Lemon Drop – citrus vodka, Domaine de Canton
Ginger Liqueur and fresh ginger muddled with lemon and agave. Served in a martini glass with a sugared rim, this drink had a perfect balance of sweet and sour, with just a touch of spice from the ginger. A truly yummy adult beverage. I enjoyed my drink so much, I actually ordered a second – a rarity for me. I also went to the bar to tell Ryan that our cocktails were easily the best we had tried on this trip to Ptown!
As is our habit, we split our appetizers. We chose the Crab Cakes – lighter than many I’ve tried and impeccably fried,
they were crispy on the outside, with a perfect texture and consistency inside – not greasy at all. Mild yet tasty, they were served with a kicky, spicy sriracha mayonnaise and a corn relish that brightened the entire dish. We also sampled the Brussels Sprouts, which came lightly fried and tossed with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, crispy onions, capers and currants. What could have been a simple vegetable dish, actually had wonderful, unexpected layers of flavor – the pleasantly bitter vegetal taste of the sprouts was elevated by the hint of vinegary acidity, the
onions added a savory crunch and the currants surprised with a touch of sweetness. These were definitely not my mama’s sprouts! Lastly, the Lobster Bisque was wonderfully atypical. As with a traditional bisque, it was loaded with fresh lobster meat, cream and a touch of sherry. But what made this one remarkable was the creamy cayenne broth which gave it an addictive heat and the addition of fresh mushrooms, which imparted a woodsy, earthy depth of flavor. Hearty and warming, it was a perfect soup for the chillier weather.
Our entrées arrived soon after. I had ordered the Pappardelle Bolognese – fresh, broad, flat noodles topped with beef, pork and veal simmered in a sauce made with tomato, herbs, red wine and cream and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. The perfectly al dente pasta had just the right amount of chew and the sauce was deliciously subtle – meaty, but not overly tomatoey or acidic, having been mellowed by the cream. Scott tried the
Chef’s Special; the Seafood Moqueca. This Brazilian stew made with fish, clams, shrimp and enormous mussels in a broth of coconut milk, red curry, ginger and basil, was stunningly good. The curry and coconut flavors gave the dish a lovely exotic, almost tropical feel. And what can I say about the seafood itself? Fresh, sweet and clean
tasting, it was like the ocean in a bowl! Oh, and Scott cleaned his bowl, by the way!
Mackenzie worked his charms and convinced us to try a little dessert. We decided on the Tiramisu. Sweet, but not too sweet, it was moist and yummy, with a decadent spongy texture and a delectable creaminess from the mascarpone. I would’ve liked a stronger coffee flavor to play off the sweetness, but still it was very, very good.
At one point, Executive Chef Dan Jaffe-Suggs came out to introduce himself and we chatted about how much we had enjoyed his food. It seemed clear to me that Dan has a true passion for cooking and I could taste that passion in every bite; every dish.
I look forward to coming back to Pilgrim House soon – perhaps to stay in one of their breezy Cape Cod style rooms.
I’d also love to return for Tony Award-nominated Sharon McNight’s show Gone But Not Forgotten on November 23rd and 24th, or for David Maiocco and Chuck Sweeney’s fabulously campy Lee Squared, with Maiocco starring as Liberace and Sweeney as Miss Peggy Lee, playing on November 30th and December 1st. I’ve seen them all perform many times and trust me, they’re worth the trip!
So come to Pilgrim House. Come to stay, to play, to be entertained and to indulge in a great meal. This is classic Ptown!
